Saturday, June 27, 2009

Beijing and beyond: banquet, bus rides and a no-star hotel

I have much more to share about Beijing, but I need to share with you the bus ride to Zhangjiakou. It took over three and one-half hours to go about 100 miles into the mountains north of Beijing. That included a stop to check what was making noise and leaking from the bus and a ten minute stop at of what was like a rest stop with a public bathroom and a couple small grocery stores. The driver used his wrenches on the bus and I had a popsicle. It is still very humid and hot even in the mountains.

There was also very good news at this stop. I found Coca Cola Light, the closest thing to diet I had seen in a store since we arrived in China. At the hotel in Beijing you can get a glass for about $7 U.S., cooled, but not cold. This was in a refrigerated case and really hit the spot.

I would insert a hyperlink for Zhangjiakou, but there is no Internet service so I will need to wait until I get back to Beijing in three days to post. Not only is there no Internet, but the mobile phone service has been turned off. There are many disgruntled members in our group, upset with the accommodations and the lack of this service. We are told that the local dignitaries supporting us are negotiating with the government to get it turned back on.

On the bus trip we were told that the hotel was not like the Five Star Beijing hotel, it was more like a four star. Well, in the U.S. it might not qualify for any stars. Peeling wall paper, torn curtains, one English speaking TV station (CCTV), worn/torn dirty carpeting, and cigarette smoke and burns. Smoking is much more prevalent here than I saw in Beijing, including being on a slow elevator with someone smoking. Some of the ladies from the New York/New Jersey area are particularly upset with these accommodations. Though of lower quality, the room may have actually been cleaner than my room in Beijing.

The first thing upon arrival was another banquet that included 26 courses. Thankfully, each course is small, but it still adds up. I can feel my waist expanding and my clothes tightening up. I tried EVERYTHING, including fish maw in a handless cup, fish balls and egg white, conch, and even “delicious” donkey meat. It wasn’t bad except there was more than meat on the plate, as at least two organs from some part of the donkey were also on the plate. Suffice it to say, I can say I tasted donkey meat, but it was one plate that I did not finish. What strikes me most about the food is that it is not spicy often to the point of being bland. The dishes with a sauce are usually the best, with any of the seafood dishes being at the top of my list. And yes, there was toast after toast with some type of hard liquor and wine always in your glass. I made it through with no problems, though there are some odd tastes in my mouth now as I find myself with some minor burps. Thank goodness for another coke light.

I forgot to share the other thing that is causing some to be upset: We have a 10:00 p.m. curfew. Yes, in our room by 10. We are told that there is not much to do In Zhangjiakou after this time. Looking out my window would suggest otherwise as there are many cars and people moving on the streets. Through all this, the people that we meet continue to amaze me. They are courteous and eager to please and support us. The hotel staff, most of whom do not speak English, are very helpful. I got a half roll of toilet paper and batteries for the remote control delivered using sign language, gestures and a few words.

Tomorrow we finally start the school visitations. Things have changed to include only two visits instead of four. I am randomly scheduled tomorrow for a technical school so I am trying to find someone to switch with me so I can visit an elementary school, the only other choice.

What I am learning is that this trip is much more about promoting Hanban’s language program to expand the number of schools in our country teaching Chinese language and culture. It is more about experiencing Chinese culture through visiting prominent sites and natural areas than visiting the schools. Though I am enjoying and learning thus far, I was hoping to experience more of the schools than we will have the opportunity to do. I am also intrigued and eager to learn more about the language program and ability through Hanban to implement it with exchange teachers. A number of the districts here already are using the program and give it good ratings, both the teachers and the program they teach.

I am hopeful that we will have phone service tomorrow so that I can get something on my blog about the lack of Internet; and if there is a way to use my phone I have no clue or the time to learn it here. Our days are packed with little opportunity for reflection, reading, or relaxation. It’s 11:30 pm and I’m ready to call it a day.

NEWS ALERT: At midnight I had a knock on my door from a member of our team. He informed me that we would be leaving in the morning after the first school visit. It seems like I actually have one of the better, cleaner rooms, others are in much worse shape than mine. Hanban did not actually visit the hotel because we were moved from the place they planned for us when a high-ranking member of the government decided to visit that city at the same time. And, the real reason for the curfew is that it would not be safe for us to be on the streets in the evening.

This means we get to bus back to Beijing in the morning (3.5 hours) and then go to a city in southern Hebei Province that could be another 3+ hours on the bus. This is one more chapter in my adventure. I am meeting people from my country and from China and acquiring new information that is allowing me to be reflective about our district’s journey from an entirely new context.

My main concern continues to be the lack of access to schools and the people in them, both kids and adults. Because we are out in the province away from Beijing I am also concerned that there will not be student access to technology. The packet that we have prepared to introduce ourselves and to invite collaboration is around becoming e-pals. I will know more about this after the school visit this morning.

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